I feel like I've just returned from
Ethiopia. In a way I have. I spent the day at an Ethiopian Orthodox baptism. It
was held in Minneapolis, Minnesota, but nothing inside the church all day could
hint at any place other than the old country. Much like Roman
Catholicism in the Western World, the Orthodox Church traditionally baptizes
infants, rather than adults. A custom no doubt reflecting the high infant
mortality around the world, where baby boys die even earlier than baby girls
for a whole host of reasons, Ethiopian baby boys are traditionally baptized
when they are 40 days old, and baby girls, who are often stronger at birth, at
80 days. Perhaps the thinking goes something like this: “Let’s get these boys
baptized sooner and maybe some of that grace will rub off and cause more of
them to live longer….”
A study
published in a recent issue of Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of
infant mortality in 15 developed countries, including Australia, found that
baby boys are 24% more likely to die than baby girls. This is down from a peak
of 31% in 1970. "The marked reversal of
historical trends indicates that at an age when males and females experience
very similar lives, they are very different in their biological
vulnerability," says co-author Professor Eileen Crimmins at the University of
Southern California Davis
School of Gerontology. "As infant mortality falls to very low levels,
infant deaths become increasingly concentrated among those who are born with
some weakness." However, it is still double
the rate in the days before the development of vaccines and public health
measures, such as improved sanitation, dramatically improved infant mortality
rates.
The male disadvantage
begins in utero. Girls have a stronger immune system while boys are 60% more
likely to be born prematurely and experience respiratory problems.
Boys are also more
likely to cause difficult labor because their body and head sizes are often
larger than girls. When poor sanitation and nutrition weakened all mothers and
babies, the male disadvantage was less noticeable. Today (2014 findings), look
more like this:
5.7 deaths per 1,000 births
in the U.S.; 70 deaths per 1,000 births in Ethiopia, 98 deaths per 1,000 births
in Somalia, Iceland has only 3.14 deaths per 1,000 births—even better than the
U.S. as does Greece at 4.7 deaths per 1,000 births, Cuba at 4.6, Ireland at 3.7,
Sweden at 2.7, and Monaco with only 1.8 deaths per 1,000 births; however, in
1990, the infant mortality rate in Tibet, according to a study in the Chinese Journal of Population Science,
was 92.5 deaths per 1,000 live births, roughly triple the national average for
China. I am still sending out antennae,
hoping to find backing for a trip to Tibet in the near future in order to get some real
data on the situation there and hopefully some answers, too. In Tibet, the death rate of women in childbirth in
2012 was 174 maternal deaths per 100,000 births, compared to about 28 maternal
deaths per 100,000 births in the U.S. Something needs to be done.
But back to Little Ethiopia in Minneapolis. The invitation
said 6 a.m. Really? I was there. As the doors closed behind me, I smelled
incense. I noticed shoes lined up by the door, too, off to one side. I removed
mine and stepped into the church. Even the priest was standing up front
reciting the prayers, clad in ornate gold vestments, in his stocking feet. The
church was very traditional Orthodox with icons filling the walls and a gate at
the front closing off the actual altar. Colorful tapestries and rugs covered
the floor, the steps up to the gate, and the aisles. Heavy satin and velvet maroon
curtains hung over the gate and across the front of the sanctuary. Giant
sequined red and gold ceremonial umbrellas were lined up off to one side of the
sanctuary next to 2 huge drums, also opulently decorated.
The women were all standing in the pews on the
right of the church and the men on the left. A tiny girl, not more than 3 years
old, with an impish smirk on her face, wandered up and down the center aisle, stopping to visit with different
ones who invited her over. She was dressed in a miniature copy of the richly
embroidered dress and veil of the older women, though her
tiny pigtail tufts held her veil up at a funny angle which made her even cuter. All
were dressed in white linen. No one tried to hush her or the other children in
the pews. All the children were held or cuddled or left to wander around,
unlike many churches in America where children are expected to sit still and
remain perfectly quiet. Except, I now recall, the Amish services I have
attended,
despite their strict rules and old fashioned religiosity. At one
point during a particularly long service, great big cookies were passed out to
keep the children happy and they were free to come and go should they need
to use the outhouse out back. Hutterite services were definitely different,
however. The littlest children are expected to fill the front-most pews, the
next group in age taking the next rows, and so on. Men and women sit on
opposite sides of the meeting house, filling up the middle and back pews. This
arrangement makes it possible for the parents to watch their children during
the services and should there be anything out of the expected behavior in
church, it will be taken up later at
home. Babies and toddlers go to the kliene
shul (little school) or daycare during services.
An aside here, I was happy to read that before a
baptism recently in Rome, the Pope made a general announcement that during the
service it is perfectly alright to breastfeed the babies there that day. Good
for him. You rock, Pope Francis!
Against one of the walls to the right of the pews
about 30 sticks were hung up like brooms in a janitor’s closet. They looked
like broom handles or crutches. Maybe shepherd staffs. I couldn’t guess what
they were for.
So we stood. The first hour went by quickly. So
much was new to me, and the icons were beautiful, some framed with embroidered
white scarves. The next hour was getting harder. How could they stand for so
long? One older grandmother left her pew at one point, took one of the broom
handles from the rack on the wall and returned to her place. She held the top
handle of it with both hands, closed her eyes and leaned in against it. It was a crutch! You could prop yourself up
with it and rest awhile.
So went the next hour. Prayers, hymns, incense, bells, responsorial prayers where the congregation answers the priest, all in Amharic. Not one word of English so far. The next hour dragged on. Then all of a sudden two gold-robbed deacons with matching gold brocade fez-like hats started filling up the baptismal font from two huge tea kettles. It was a brass caldron-like affair. The two families in the first pews started undressing their babies as I wondered if they had given them chamomile tea or something to quiet them. They hadn’t cried at all during the service so far. The priest then produced a huge ledger and wrote down the babies and parents’ names in the book, having the mothers check the spelling of the names before he closed it.
At this point the dads from the men’s side came
over to hold their naked babies. A blanket was thrown around them to keep them
warm until it was their turn at the font. Dozens of cell phones and cameras stood ready.
Then the priests, deacons, acolytes, and the two families moved forward to the water. More hymns and prayers for a while and then the priest signaled to the first dad to hand the baby to him. The tiny girl was wide awake but completely quiet. A deacon held the baby above the water as the priest scooped up a handful of the water three times and trickled it over the baby’s head. Then the priest took the baby from the deacon and dunked her three times, careful to only submerge her up to her armpits. She still didn’t cry. Another man was ready behind the priest with a towel. Then the priest did same thing again with the baby boy. Still wrapped in their respective towels, the priest blessed the babies with holy oil. Returning again through the gate, the priest along with the whole entourage proceeded with the Divine Liturgy. Oh, I almost forgot. After the babies were baptized, the people came out from the pews up to the steps of the sanctuary and the priest splashed water from the font onto them, group by group as they came up. Then they returned to the pews, making room for the next group to get splashed. I was pushed along by the wave of women in my pew and similarly, liberally doused.
Then the priests, deacons, acolytes, and the two families moved forward to the water. More hymns and prayers for a while and then the priest signaled to the first dad to hand the baby to him. The tiny girl was wide awake but completely quiet. A deacon held the baby above the water as the priest scooped up a handful of the water three times and trickled it over the baby’s head. Then the priest took the baby from the deacon and dunked her three times, careful to only submerge her up to her armpits. She still didn’t cry. Another man was ready behind the priest with a towel. Then the priest did same thing again with the baby boy. Still wrapped in their respective towels, the priest blessed the babies with holy oil. Returning again through the gate, the priest along with the whole entourage proceeded with the Divine Liturgy. Oh, I almost forgot. After the babies were baptized, the people came out from the pews up to the steps of the sanctuary and the priest splashed water from the font onto them, group by group as they came up. Then they returned to the pews, making room for the next group to get splashed. I was pushed along by the wave of women in my pew and similarly, liberally doused.
Toward the end of the fourth hour I was standing
with my eyes closed, listening to the beautiful eastern melodies when someone
touched my sleeve. It was one of the deacons with a large book. He was holding
it out to me. I panicked. What was I supposed to do with it? I winced and
looked straight at him, hoping for a clue. Was I being invited to recite the
next reading? Smart man, he whispered, “You may honor the gospel”, which is a
custom I was familiar with from my monastery days—and that is another story altogether.
At least then, usually at Easter, a cross or a bible was brought to the people
to venerate. This one was an ancient, leather-bound tome with an orthodox cross
embroidered on the cover. I touched my forehead to the book and then kissed the
cross. I must have done it right because he moved on to the next person. It
must have taken him another half hour to circulate through the whole assembly.
When he returned to the priest, he read from the gospel for that day, and then
afterwards, the bible was brought around again for all the people to kiss.
After the reading, one of the deacons came
straight down the aisle and turned into my pew. Oh, no. Had I done something
wrong? He opened a book he had under his arm and pointed to the verse the
priest was reciting at that moment. There were three columns of writing on each
page, one in Amharic, one in Oromo, and the last in English. Oh, good. Now I
could somewhat follow what was going on.
So this was what Sundays are for. It is the
Sabbath, and these people took that very seriously. If you can’t work, you
might as well spend the day at church, praying, worshipping and singing. I
started composing this story in my head as we neared the beginning of the next
hour. Then my cell phone went off. EEEEKKKK! How could I be so stupid? I
grabbed it out of my purse and tried to muffle it against my chest. I quickly
turned it off. No one turned to admonish me or even glare at me. A minute later
someone else’s phone rang, so I didn’t feel so completely mortified.
Two more grandmothers and a grandfather from the
other side of the room retrieved crutches during the next hour. Then the
umbrellas were opened and marched over to the tabernacle where the bread and
wine had been consecrated, and the entire entourage processed back through the
gate to the people who were lining up for communion. The newly baptized babies
were presented first. The priest dropped a miniscule crumb of the bread onto a
silver spoon that contained a drop of the wine and fed the babies their first communion
like that. They still had not fussed at all. After all of the people received
communion, the umbrellas were put aside and the priest delivered a sermon. It
was all in Amharic, so I sat quietly and went back to composing my notes in my
head.
As soon as the sermon was over, four young people
dressed in blue headdresses and robes came forward, each holding a staff or
crutch. Then one of the deacons took off his outer vestment and picked up one
of the drums. The air was instantly electrified. The women started clapping and
swaying as he began a low, slow, deep boom boom boom beat on the drum. He
slowly marched in a little circle in the center of the sanctuary as the people
in blue—two young men and two young women—marched toward each other and then back
again. All of a sudden the beat picked up and the staffs were whacked on the
floor with the beat and the drumming got louder and louder and on some cue that
I couldn’t discern, all the women did some kind of trilling with their tongues,
all in unison, and then stopped, all together, something I had heard in African
music before, but never live. It was all so amazing!
Even the littlest children
were dancing and clapping. I remembered then that in the Old Testament King
David had danced before the Arc of the Covenant (II Samuel 6 and Psalm 132) and
wondered when we in the Western World had lost this part of our worship and had
become so very serious. Dads were holding their tiny children dancing between
the pews. At one point the drummer turned his drum over to another deacon who
started right away with the faster beat, much to the agreement of his audience
who trilled and clapped and kept dancing. Then things settled down and the priest walked up
to the lectern to deliver another lesson. I guessed it was on a secular subject
because he had removed his gold vestments before mounting the steps up to the
podium. We all sat at that point. I wasn’t looking at my watch anymore,
resigned that this was what I had committed to for the day, so it no longer
mattered if he spoke for 15 minutes or an hour. When he was done, it was
obvious that the service was indeed over. People stood up, the staffs were all
returned to the broom rack on the wall and people were wading through the piles
of shoes in the back looking for their own pair. As all of that was happening,
the two acolytes were passing out paper cups of water. I was handed a cup as a
girl asked me, “Do you drink holy water?” I said yes and gladly drank it, but
within another moment wondered to myself if somehow we were consuming the water
that the priest had blessed and both naked babies had been immersed in. Oh,
well. I just chocked it up to another new experience.
People were slowly making their way to the
bottleneck at the front doors and on down into the church’s basement, and then
just as quickly coming back up with huge chunks of homemade bread. Then they
broke pieces off and handed them out to everyone else still on the steps. It
wasn’t the same bread as the communion host, but most likely, I imagine,
something to hold everyone over so they wouldn’t faint on the way home. In many
faiths, people fast from food from the night before they wish to receive
communion, so if that were the case, these people had had a very long wait
until now. It was past noon.
Back at Selassie’s apartment we
all fell into the plush sofas and finished off our bread. It was wonderful,
though unlike any bread I had eaten at their houses before. It was definitely
sweeter. Soon more and more people were arriving with hot and cold dishes and
the kitchen was humming. I had waited to hold little Kelile all day until now, and I finally got to
play with him. He seemed to know me right away, though I had only been checking
in less than once a week since the birth. He looked so good, so happy and
filling out. We had concerns in the beginning. One of the specialty children’s
hospitals here has checked him over and put in place a care plan to address the
concerns. He will be fine. An emergency C-section didn’t help Selassie worry
any less about him. Her husband Yonas was still back home in Africa, plodding
through the immigration process. The latest fly in the works is a new
requirement from the U.S. visa department. Selassie had to come up with $600
and have the baby’s DNA tested and then send the file to a hospital in Dolo
Odo, Ethiopia and have her husband’s tested too. If he proves to be his father,
then he might still get a visa, on the condition that he meets all of the other
requirements. I have worked with many women from Africa who come here, either
pregnant or with small children, find work and housing, and then proceed to try
to sponsor their husbands. If the whole family applies all at once, they are
not always granted permission to immigrate.
I went into the kitchen after Kelile made it very
clear that it was time for him to
eat, and Selassie disappeared into the other room with him. I was hoping to
help with the preparations, but they were mostly finish. The last ingera pancakes were being rolled and stacked
on a huge straw platter and the buffet was ready. Stews and various curries sat steaming:
red curries, yellow curries, curries with chicken, curries with hard boiled
eggs swimming in the sauce, yellow rice, barbequed ribs, steak strips in
another pan, all elegantly arranged. Trays of sodas and coolers of bottled
water and beer were being brought out to the tables. All of us were being
ushered then into the kitchen to pick up our plates and drinks. The food and
people too kept coming and going all afternoon and into the evening as Kelile
slept.